Blue diamond twill smokkr

The second layer of my elevation outfit (over the natural white serk that I wore for my vigil) was a smokkr in blue diamond twill wool. This smokkr is made using the five-panel pattern I developed based on fragments from Hedeby and Birka; for this dress I did not include the dart from the Hedeby fragment.
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This garment is totally hand sewn (thanks to Viscountess Whilja and Mistress Caterucia for their help!). The top front is decorated with a tablet woven band, and the bottom hem is edged in contrasting silk.
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The straps are made of strips of the same wool as the garment, folded twice to encase the raw edge and then sewn using whip stitch.

Hedeby serk construction

My vigil dress is great for demonstrating the cut of my Hedeby serk because the seam lines show up easily on the white fabric.

This pattern is part of my ‘fragments’ project, where I created speculative patterns based on the diagrams of Hedeby clothing fragments in Inga Hägg’s Die Textilfunde aus dem Hafen von Haithabu.

Hedeby style serk

Full length shot of Hedeby style serk

This dress pattern has two main panels (front and back) with a round neckline and inset sleeves, and two gores on each side:

Detail of sides gores

Detail of sides gores

side gore 2

Detail of side gore

One particularly interesting aspect of the Hedeby harbor finds is the existence of several examples of 10th century pieced sleeves.

left sleeve flat

Back view of the left sleeve, showing three-piece construction.

Right sleeve, showing fit and location of seam

Right sleeve, showing fit and location of seam

 

Current projects

Sorry for the silence, but the last few months have been crazy. In addition to planning a wedding, at Crown Tournament I was invited to join the Order of the Laurel (the SCA’s highest award for arts). Well, of course that means I need new clothes . . .

I am planning a Birka-inspired outfit to use the wonderful brocaded tablet weaving that my honey got me at last Estrella war. The outfit will consist of a linen serk, diamond twill wool smokkr, and a silk trimmed wool caftan.

I decided to order the fabric for my vigil dress and elevation caftan from Naturtuche (www.naturtuche.de) and I highly recommend them to anyone looking for beautiful, light weight wools in color and weaves appropriate to the Viking Age. Their customer service is wonderful and their products are to die for!